FAQ Saddles

FAQ - frequent asked questions: 

Facts About Australian Made Saddles

Why an Australian Made Saddle:  

When you buy a genuine made Australian saddle, you are buying a saddle that has been hand crafted by a saddle maker with a minimum of 5 years training.  As well, just like a custom made western saddle, it takes as long as 40 hours to complete the saddle. Truly these are a piece of art and great care and attention is put into the process of building the saddle. A good Australian saddle maker not only takes pride in their work, but also uses quality veg tanned leather from a reputable source such as the US or New Zealand, where only select hides are used. The saddle tree is also a concern, and the Australian made saddles we carry all have a 10 year warranty on the tree. The tree is the base of the saddle, and the quality, strength and shape is designed with the care of both the horse and rider in mind.  Remember, an Australian saddle was originally designed for the rough terrain of the Outback. Chasing cattle for long hours on horseback required a secure, close contact saddle that would last for years without damage to the horse or rider's backs.  As well as the tree and leather, an  Australian made saddle will have quality brass hardware and fittings that are built to last. With proper care, it is not unusual for these saddles to last a lifetime of riding.

Asian made Saddles: If you want the very best, then there is no doubt you should buy one of our Australian made saddles. However, for some people the price is outside their budget, or they would like to try a low cost  Australian saddle before making the purchase of a Australian made. That is where we suggest  the  Kimberley Series (TM) Saddles, and the Down Under Series Saddles.   

 

How are our Asian Saddles Different?

Firstly, most catalog and internet companies purchase the lowest price Aussie style saddle out of India. These saddles cost the importer very little and offer no manufacture warranty. These saddles are generally made from a painted (pigmented) leather that is poorly tanned and will not accept the oil. Accordingly, the saddle leather gets much drier over time - this is what is referred to as cardboard leather. As it dries out it tears fairly easily, creating a serious safety issue for the rider. Furthermore, many of these saddles are not rigged correctly, and are difficult if not almost impossible to tighten the girth enough to stop the saddle slipping on the horse. But really, what does one expect for such a low price? Nothing changes when it comes to saddles, you get what you pay for. You can not spend the least and expect the most - quality & satisfaction comes at a certain price. As well, the comfort and support to your horse's muskuloskeletal system must be maintained for their lasting health.
Unfortunately, thousands of these low quality saddles have been sold in North America  over the last 20 years, and these saddles seldom work for the purchaser and generally end up being offered in magazine advertisements, generic websites, horse auctions and on-line auctions.  These saddles are not comparable to how a properly made Australian saddle will feel and fit your horse.


We do not sell the cheap Asian made saddles that are explained above. Our Kimberley and Down Under saddles are all quality saddles, backed by a 2 year to 10 year , manufacturers tree warranty (depending on the model). Down Under saddles have long term relationships with reputable manufacturers, and these saddles are made exclusively to there strict quality and materials standards. Down Under personally meet with the manufacturers on a consistent basis to work on product improvements and quality control.

The Kimberley Saddles are all hand-made from a soft naked leather, that will further soften after additional oiling and use. The stitching thread is "All American" nylon bonded, to ensure that everything even the stitching, is long lasting and very durable. Our Kimberley Saddles have an extremely high reputation and should serve the customer well for many years. The Down Under Series saddles have even higher quality leather and special attention to detail during production.
The Kimberley Series and Down Under Series saddles are the next best thing to purchasing a genuine Australian made saddle.  
Additionally, all of our Kimberley and Down Under saddles have adjustable saddle trees, that we can custom adjust to fit nearly any breed of horse.


Honesty, Integrity & Support: 

The most important consideration is not how much you spend on a saddle, but instead, you should carefully consider from which Company you intend to purchase from and how helpful and honest they are. It is extremely important that you can get the specialized assistance you need, both before and after the sale, to ensure you experience the many benefits available from an Australian Saddle. Australian saddles are very different and require a certain expertise in making sure you purchase the correct type of saddle for your particular horse breed, along with the right saddle for your riding style.  

 


   The difference in Panels:

Serge Panel

This kind of panel is self adjusting, the saddle fit keeps improving with each and every ride, until it has conformed to the shape of your horse. This kind of saddle will sit higher on the horse when new, but will lower when the panel begins to conform to your horse. This however, will only work if you have the correct tree width to suit your horse, please refer to our horse fitment details for more information (click here). The stuffing in our saddles is a combination wool flock blend and it is unlikely that you ever need to reawl or restuff the panel, unless you do a tremendous amount of riding. A serge panel saddle is best suited for horses with medium to higher withers, and is ideal for the majority of horses. This is the most popular type of Australian saddle and will provide many years of service.

Fleece Panel

Fleece panels are most commonly seen on Western saddles and are fitted to Aussie saddles that are made with extended bars on the saddle tree. The riders weight is spread over a larger area on the horses back (due to the extended bars), amounting to less pounds per square inch of weight on the horses back. However, this kind of panel is best suited for horses that have a long wide flat back. If you use this kind of saddle on a horse with a short back, the extended panels may irritate/rub the horse, additionally if your horse has any curve to its back, this kind of panel will cause a bridging effect, whereby all the riders weight will be at four points on the horse’s back (either side at the front and either side at the back). However, if your horse has a wide flat back, this panel is an excellent choice.....

 How to measure an Australian Stock Saddle

Australian saddles are measured differently to Western or English saddles. Below is a guide to the size you will need in an Australian saddle, however we still require your height, weight and pant size to correctly determine the exact size you will need for a particular saddle.
 Western Size  14  15  16  17  18
 English Size  17  18  19  20  21
 Aussie Size  16  17  18  19  20

(a) length of tree. (b) dip in seat.
(c) height of kneepad. (d) height of thigh pad.
(e) length of flap.

Ladies Approximate Saddle Size Guide for Australian Saddles:
Size 
15 
16 
17 
18 
19 
20 
21
 Pant Size 
4/6
6/8
10/12
14/16
18/20
20/22
22 Plus
 Weight lbs 
95 - 120
120 - 140
140 - 160
160 - 180
180 - 200
200 - 220
220 Plus
 
Men's Approximate Saddle Size Guide for Australian Saddles:
Size 
15 
16 
17 
18 
19 
20 
21
 Pant Size 
28 - 32
32 - 34
34 - 36
36 - 38
38 - 40
40 - 42
42 Plus
 Weight lbs 
110 - 130
130 - 160
160 - 180
180 - 200
200 - 220
220 - 240
240 Plus

How Do You Measure Your Horse For A Customer Saddle Fit?

It's Easy!

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1. First, note the line as illustrated. This represents the front edge of the saddle tree.

2. Next, snip off the ends of a common coat hanger, and bend over area indicated until you have a snug fit. Carefully remove without changing the angle.

3. Finally, trace the outline of the wire on some paper with a black marker. Fax (250-296-4164) or mail with your order. From this we can make a template and cross check it against your saddle order.

 

Where to position the saddle on your horse: Australian Saddles sit more forward on the horses back than traditional Western saddles, the stirrups are also attached in a more forward position. This puts the rider’s center of gravity and weight over the horse’s shoulder rather than the middle of the spine. This position is unquestionably far more comfortable for most horses and greatly enhances horse performance. Before undertaking a long ride with your new saddle, we suggest many shorter rides allowing the padding to conform and adjust to your horse.

 

 

How the saddle should fit on your horse: Australian saddles do sit differently on a horse than Western or English saddles, and a different approach is required. Make sure you contact us directly with any questions you may have. Be assured no one else can offer you the kind of knowledge required for saddle fitment of Australian saddles. Do not rely on trainers, tack shops, conventional saddle fitters or friends, whom although mean well, do not have the expertise required regarding Australian saddles and how they should fit your horse.

 

The ABC Saddle Fitment Program

The Front of the saddle is too high (A): The front (pommel) of this saddle is sitting too high. this will result in the majority of the riders' weight being transferred to the back half of the saddle. It's a simple principal of weight running downhill. This is uncomfortable for the rider and the horse; within a short period of time the horse will develop white hair, then visible saddle soreness. The saddle tree is too narrow for the horse, and you need a wider tree saddle. The narrower the saddle tree the higher the front of the saddle will sit.

The Front of the saddle is too low (B): The back (cantle) of this saddle is sitting too high. This will result in the majority of the riders' weight being transferred to the front half of the saddle. It's a simple principal of weight running downhill. This is uncomfortable for the rider and the horse; within a short period of time the horse will develop white hair, then visible saddle soreness. The saddle tree is too wide for the horse, and you need a narrower tree saddle or a saddle tree adjustment (avail. with most of our saddles). The wider the saddle tree the lower the front of the saddle will sit.

Absolutely as good as it gets (C): The front and back of this saddle is level, distributing the rider's weight evenly over the horse's back. Actually we don't just consider the front and back of the saddle, we also look at the seat itself, the seat in this saddle is nice and lever. To determine that the saddle is fairly level, just eyeball it, there is no need to use an engineers level.

It is not always possible to get this perfect "textbook fitment" shown here, however, if the front is a little higher or a little lower, you will be just fine, as long as you don't have the extremes shown above. (Several of our saddle models are made with a deeper seat and higher cantle, so naturally the back of the seat will sit slightly higher than the front on these models.)

 

How can you determine saddle fitment in this way? I saw some guy conducting a clinic and claiming you need to have four fingers of clearance at the front of the saddle and certain clearance on each side of the withers.

Well I guess you might say we have taken saddle fitment to a whole new level. If you don't have enough clearance between the top of the withers and the saddle, the front of the saddle is obviously sitting too low on the horse, this is diagnosed in illustration "B" above. If you had too much clearance at the front this is diagnosed in illustration "A". Our new fitting program is as simple as ABC, you would wonder why saddle fitters try to make it so difficult, unfortunately they probably see it as another income stream.

 

How To Ride Australian ....

Riding Position: Adjust the stirrup leather length so when you're sitting in the saddle your thigh runs parallel with the kneepad. You'll ride longer in the stirrup with your feet forward and heels down. You should place 25% of your weight in each stirrup and the balance in the seat of the saddle, this ensures an even weight distribution on the horse's back. If your horse is developing sore spots, you always need to consider two points, saddle fitment and the rider's technique. Is the rider placing the correct weight in the stirrups and the saddle seat?

When posting in an Australian saddle, you need to use a much lower post than you might have been taught by your riding instructor. You have a few minor riding adjustments to make in order to enjoy the many benefits of an Australian saddle. After you have mastered "Aussie Riding" it is unlikely you will ever want to ride Western or English ever again.





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